18th century cap?

I ran this up in 10 minutes this morning from stash to go over my somewhat messy 18th century hairstyle for Armageddon Christchurch 2015.

The Challenge:  3 - Stashbusting

Fabric:  
Silk organza, linen lace

Stashed for?: 
The organza was bought in 2014 for underlining, the linen lace was bought in 2013 from a destash sale from the Embroiderers Guild if I remember correctly



Pattern:
None, I just cut out a circle, added the lace and then applied a drawing thread with zig zag.

Year:
1775 simply because the rest of the outfit is

Notions:
various threads

How historically accurate is it?
probably not at all, but I needed something to go on my hair for Armageddon to hide some of the first ever attempt at 18th century hair.

Hours to complete:
10 minutes

First worn:
today at Armageddon

Total cost:
Maybe $8?

I feel like it finished off the outfit nicely, although I have a calash I made last year it wasn't really suitable for an indoor event.  I think technically it was too small, but it was so cute I don't care!    I got stopped and asked for photo's by several people so I was pretty happy about that.

I should have taken a photo when I first put it on while I was still wearing the dress, but forgot as I was in too much of a rush.

I made a video!

It's not perfect, I'm still learning the video function on my camera but it turned out better than I expected.   It did bring to the fore just how much weight I've put on, apparently a camera is much better at telling the truth than the mirror is.  At least I know now, and I know how to deal with it!

I also got some sewing on the dress done, but no photo's or video of that.

Back to the video, it's all about how to spin on the Majacraft Stylus; there's a bit of waffle about other things but I stuck fairly closely to my intentions.   I'd love to know what you all think and if there's anything in particular you'd like to see me do in the future.

Enjoy!

Updates

My blue dress is now cut out and ready to go; hoping to get sewing tomorrow

I'm currently spinning long draw on my stylus and at the same time attempting to do a video of the process; I've had 3 goes so far and keep cutting my head off and misjudging where the camera is pointing when showing my fibre length.   I'll try again tomorrow when the boys are at school.  If I can get it sorted I might try doing the odd Vlog.

I'm up to row 42 on my Evenstar shawl, it's feeling a bit like a slog, but it'll be worth it in the end.  Only problem is the end looks like it's a very long way away!

Almost finished my current travel sock and have just wound the ball for the second one.

I'm decreasing for the toe now, this is my dye effort and I'm loving how it's turning out.

Have finished the fibre and knitting for my advanced spinning group, and I've even sent it off to the North Island for festival.  The remnants will be used with some yellow commercial yarn to make boot socks; I need some thicker socks to go in my Caterpillar boots.

3 ply East Fresian and silk.   Flick carded the wool and the silk caps were spun with swearing.

The mini-sock sample

I've also made myself a pair of Fehr Trade workout pants.   I think I need a smaller size in the legs, alternatively I need to lose more of the tummy so everything fits better!   There's no more sugary stuff in the house now so that should help.

Ignore the red, that's the pair I was wearing when I tried these on, I was lazy and left them on.

I love the peacock, pity I muffed the one on the other side.

And finally I spun some superwash merino, this has been Navajo plied and come out Aran weight.

It's beautifully soft.

Stays!

This was originally meant to be my January Historical Sew Monthly Challenge; it's late and I put yarn in instead, but I'm still going to go with the same information for it

The Challenge:  Foundations

Fabric:  Lining is cotton duck for strength and the outer is a very fine silk twill which still has excellent body

Pattern:  Red Threaded's Regency Stays pattern, bought off Etsy.com

Year:  1810

Notions:  Thread (polyester), German plastic boning (when I ran out of the spiral boning), spiral steel bones, sprung steel bones, silk bias binding (made by me), cotton cording laces, polyester ribbon and black steel grommets.  There will be a wood busk, but I have to make that yet

How historically accurate is it?  Probably about 70%, some of the materials aren't quite right like the cotton laces, some of the boning for obvious reasons and some machine sewing.    A lot of it was hand sewn though and I'm pretty sure the silk was close to accurate.   The grommets aren't but I wasn't about to put my RSI through that many eyelets by handsewing, unfortunately I only had black.

Hours to complete:  No clue whatsoever, but they're done now so I can now start working on the dress and shift and bodiced petticoat.

First worn:  For the photo's, managed to get them on by myself, was worried they weren't going to fit, but with the laces snugged in they fit well.

Total cost:  Hard to know, many of the supplies I bought some time ago, but probably around $100

 

See, they fit!  The shoulder straps could be slightly longer, mainly cos I'm slung a little lower than ideal for these styles, indeed too low for modern styles too.  I have to do pattern adjustments for modern clothes too.

Need to work on my lacing being more even, but considering I had no help this is pretty good.

hand sewn gussets

and all the annoying black grommets

 I wasn't only working on the stays today, this is the East Fresian all plied and waiting to come off the bobbin.

And now I'm going to take a break and kill some zombies.   I might get the dress cut out in a few days.

Some very good advice

Today I took a break from tidying out my corner cupboard and perused Facebook and I found a link to a blog I think is really valuable it's about pricing handmade items.   Now at the moment I don't sell what I make, but I am considering selling my hand-spun yarn at some point and when I get good enough my weaving.   I know a bit about pricing, but the main thing I know is that most people who sell their hand-made items undercharge "because it's just a hobby".
When I do start selling stuff I will be charging enough to cover my materials and a reasonable amount for my labour. 

In the meantime though I'm still working on my stays, at the moment there's the top to bind and the eyelets to add which I'm hoping to finish this weekend

1st week of school

I thought I'd get heaps of time in the sewing room, and in some ways I have, but not sewing.   Mostly pulling out yarn I've sold, addressing bags and putting it all out for shipping.    Not quite what I had in mind, but as a result I'll be making a big dent in the HP for my macro lens.   I am thinking about spending a wee bit of it on a Fitbit as well though.
I think I'd managed to forget the first week of school back is busy.   Monday was full of phone calls, making appointments.   I've now had my eyes checked and all is well there.   Heard from ACC, no sign of injury in the MRI (I had to ring them to find out), so not covered from here for the pain in my arms.   Will have to go back to the doctor for that, but it'll have to wait as I am going to the chiropractor first and I can't afford both in the same pay.   I've also made a mole check appointment, there is a family history on my mother's side of skin cancer so I decided it was time to check on that.  And, also had the plumber back to check the outside tap he replaced as it was leaking a bit; turned out to be brass filings inside it and now it's fixed.
Tomorrow is also busy, probably more yarn to pack, at least I hope so!   Then just Thursday left of the first week back at school, wonder if I'll get some sewing done then?   I need to finish my stays so I can start on the dress.   Plus I need new jeans and I think I'll have to make them both to save money and to reduce stash.

So far the boys are enjoying being back at school too, they're even getting ready relatively quickly; I hope that lasts.

Historical Sew Fortnightly Foundations Challenge - A Change of Direction

Originally the plan was to make the stays, but they're not finished and I've been feeling off colour yesterday and still a bit today so they've not moved.   I am still going to finish them, I have to in order to make the blue dress.  However since I did finish an item that could be considered a foundation on the 14th of this month I'm going to count that for this challenge and the stays will simply be in addition to it. 

What the item is:  746m of sport weight 2-ply handspun yarn (Perendale)

The Challenge:  Foundations

Fabric:  It was originally some perendale roving, it will become 18th century hand knit stockings

Pattern:   None

Year:  1775

Notions:  I used my Majacraft spinning wheel, which is totally not accurate, a spindle would have been more appropriate but the wheel is the tool I'm best with

How historically accurate is it?  Overall probably about 90%, I may have used a modern wheel, but the spinning itself is the same no matter what tool.  The 10% is the prep as I sent it off to the local mill to be carded and washed.  It's slightly overspun and overplied to make improve its wear characteristics.

Hours to complete:  A lot, I'm calling the fibre the neverending grey to give you some idea.

First worn:  Not worn yet, but patted quite a few times, does that count?
Total cost:   Probably about $30.

Progress

The Regency stays are now cut out and I've started sewing them.  The boning channels are in the main pieces, and I've got the gussets partially done, the lining still needs to be attached to them but the fashion fabric is all sewn to them, and I did that by hand.
The inner fabric is cotton duck and the outer or fashion fabric is the most gorgeous silk twill which is tightly woven, no real sheen but is perfect for what I'm doing.

Hip gusset, there is another hip gusset but it goes between the front and side pieces so it comes later.

This is the front of the stays with the bust gussets, the lining isn't in this yet, next I need to put the busk pocket in and then I can attach the lining.

I will get onto the machine sewing tomorrow hopefully, after the groceries and I suspect I'll have to get another curtain track too as Ian broke his second one tonight.

I got a little more done on the shawl, still a very long way to go but it's looking more like it'll be lovely now

Ok, it looks like a wet dishrag, but a little imagination is handy here.

I got some knitting done on the travel socks last night at the guild meeting, loving how this is looking, especially as I dyed it up myself.

I've started destashing yarn as well, I'm finding that the huge amount I have is a little overwhelming and I think having so much is also attracting more that I don't need.  I don't even want it that badly, it just seems to happen.   So I'm thinking if I get it down to manageable proportions I'll feel better and there'll be more working space in the studio.   I've also reduced my queue on Ravelry down from 9 pages to 4 and that feels better too.    I think I need to do the same with my fabric, but for now I have a destash page on Ravelry which is slowly growing and once it's all sorted I'll be listing them all on Facebook.  Getting some money won't hurt either as I'm not getting a lot of work right now.   That's a two sided thing, lovely having more time, not so good having less money; it's something that's out of my control though so I'll make the best out of it.

A Day Off?

That was the plan today after yesterday was spent clearing out the lawn area (mowing, cutting edges and using the weed eater).   It went slightly west though.   I went out and banked some money, got some fruit and some things not quite as good for me and then taped together and cut out my PDF patterns before finally sitting down with a good book.
I've also decided a couple of possible DIY things on the list might be better done by professionals.   So I've texted my plumber to see if he's still in business and have asked my brother for help in getting the cupboard door back on the kitchen unit - he's a joiner by trade.

Tomorrow the boys are at home so there will be some housework (with complaining) and picking up the cats food, and possibly some knitting.  I'd love to sew, but the lounge floor is needed to do my cutting out and the boys being home means it won't be available.  I will get the fabric out though!

Distractions

There are many distractions from crafting in my life.   Obviously there's family and work (both important) and then there's the work that needs doing on the property.

Last week was spent prepping and then painting every windowframe in the house; they now all look like this:

Nicely white, with 3 coats of gloss enamel and 1 of primer where needed.

The latter part of this week has been spent moving pavers from the garden pile to the end of the driveway as we sold them on Trademe.    There were a total of 1775 which weighed 5.8kg each.   I think I moved close to half of them and was working with minimal breaks for 2 days.   Today we've been helping load them on the purchaser's trailer

This is what's left after 3 loads have left.

I have managed a little spinning and some prep work on my next spinning project

3 skeins of romney (dyed) and one of the everlasting perendale

Halfway through flick carding the East Fresian wool, planning on spinning this for socks and the silk that came with it will be spun for embroidering on the socks.

 The East Fresian is very much like a down breed, and I love down breeds for socks so I think this will work out well.

While doing all this I've been drinking either this stuff or Bundaberg Creaming Soda; both very yummy in the heat.

I've also been weeding, wasn't that long ago we got the whole section cleared, now it's back to a weedy jungle.   The lawn needs mowing too, but I'm loath to do that when the bees love it so much!

No real knitting, well, 2 rows of my socks and 4 on the shawl plus a lifeline, but I think the above may have some impact on that.   I've also printed out 2 sewing patterns and am in the process of trimming them and sticking them together.  One is for my regency stays, the other for workout pants; polar opposites, but both necessary.   I need to finish the stays by the end of the month (eeep!) and the pants by 15th February for the Patternreview.com competition.
I will be working on the bits with deadlines first; so that's the stays, the workout pants, the East Fresian spin and then the shawl as it's 1st quarter finish.

I guess that's it for now, hoping I might get a week without major physical labour and that I'll still get some time for little workouts.

2015 Finish Along - Quarter 1

This will be my final post today; sorry about the influx, but this one is for a linky party.

For the first quarter of 2015 I am planning on finishing my Evenstar Shawl.  At the moment I'm near the end of chart 1 and I have a long way to go, including 3000 beads!  I'm knitting it in a 2-ply cashmere yarn in rose pink and I'm going to be pretty much monogamous on this I think.    Travel socks are allowed some work but as this is such a scary knit I can't afford to get distracted by anything else.

This is it as of right now, just starting row 27 of the first chart.

Historical Sew Fortnightly Plans

• January – Foundations: make something that is the foundation of a period outfit.
  
  Well, originally I was going Bustle Era, cos that's the one Dh likes, but I've had feedback from 3 other people now and Regency is winning.   Bustle era will come later.   I'm currently prewashing my cotton duck for the corset which I'll make for this challenge.  I'm going to use the Sense and Sensibility stays pattern as I already have it. 
• February – Colour Challenge Blue: Make an item that features blue, in any shade from azure to zaffre.
  
  I've got 4m of sky blue cotton voile which might work for Regency and I've got Simplicity 4055 which with some tweaking might work for a muslin robe.   I think I'll be making the view A bodice and the view B dress and it'll need to be underlined so it's not too see-through.
  Since posting this I've bought (thanks to my birthday voucher) 5m of a cotton/silk narrow striped fabric that would be lovely.
• March – Stashbusting: Make something using only fabric, patterns, trims & notions that you already have in stash.
  
  The petticoat to go with the above outfit I think.  I have plenty of plain white cotton that I can use, old sheets come to mind.   It's possible they may have some poly in them, but they're old enough that they may well be 100% cotton too.
• April – War & Peace: the extremes of conflict and long periods of peacetime both influence what people wear.  Make something that shows the effects of war, or of extended peace.
  
  Maybe a pelisse in the military style that was popular then, I've got the Sense and Sensibility pattern for this as well and hopefully some red, blue or green wool.  I know I have blue in a fulled wool anyway so this is covered
• May – Practicality:  Fancy party frocks are all very well, but everyone, even princesses, sometimes needs a practical garment that you can DO things in.  Create the jeans-and-T-Shirt-get-the-house-clean-and-garden-sorted outfit of your chosen period.
  
  Hmm, for this one I'm not sure, I may even end up back in the eighteenth century for this one.   It'll be winter here in any case so something warm.  Thinking maybe a skirt and jacket.
  Another option I've thought of recently is an apron
• June – Out of Your Comfort Zone: Create a garment from a time period you haven’t done before, or that uses a new skill or technique that you’ve never tried before.
  
  I think this may be the dress for the SCA side of things, I have some blue linen that would be perfect.
• July – Accessorize: The final touch of the right accessory creates the perfect period look.  Bring an outfit together by creating an accessory to go with your historical wardrobe.
  
  Easy choice here, a goatskin fur muff.   I have the fur already and some satin to line it and I can use some wool roving to stuff it too or make some felt to use as the warm layer.
• August – Heirlooms & Heritage: Re-create a garment one of your ancestors wore or would have worn, or use an heirloom sewing supply to create a new heirloom to pass down to the next generations.
  
  Maybe a beaded bag or reticule for this.   I could do a lace shawl as I'm working on a beaded circular shawl and although that's not suitable for the Regency period I'm sure I could fit it into the early 20th century somewhere.  If nothing else a wedding ring shawl, I've found an example of a circular shawl pattern dating to around 1900 in Weldon's Practical Needlework, vol 12.    If I finish it too early though I can always fall back on the quilt for our bed; it's machine sewn but I know quilts have been done through the ages to add warmth to beds.   I'll research before I choose this option though.
• September – Colour Challenge Brown: it’s not the most exciting colour by modern standards, but brown has been one of the most common, and popular, colours throughout history. Make something brown.
  
  Not sure what yet, but I'll either use the 2m of cotton velvet I have in stash or one of the brown lambskins.   On thinking this over I also have some camel coloured wool that would be suitable.



• October – Sewing Secrets: Hide something in your sewing, whether it is an almost invisible mend, a secret pocket, a false fastening or front, or a concealed message (such as a political or moral allegiance).
  
  No idea what I'll do for this as yet, wonder if I could do a cap with something hidden in white embroidery
• November – Silver Screen: Be inspired by period fashions as shown onscreen (film or TV), and recreate your favourite historical costume as a historically accurate period piece.
  
  Outlander, that is all.
• December – Re-Do:  It’s the last challenge of the year, so let’s keep things simple by re-doing any of the previous 11 challenges.
  
  I might redo stashbusting and use some of my stash to make the boys and my husband trousers and smocks for the SCA gathering.
  
  Now, being realistic I may not get all of these done, possibly not even most, but I do want to make more historical items.   I'll still be knitting and spinning and weaving and quilting and of course I know Ian's school wants me to do some sewing for them as well.   I think there'll need to be less computer time to get everything done.

How am I going?

1.  Health:  Sugar has been massively reduced.   First hot chocolate in a week today and one lolly offered by youngest.   On the exercise front, yesterday I climbed a big hill (the track to the old Akaroa Pa) and walked sufficiently at Akaroa and Birdlings Flat to have sore feet.   Today I also helped shift a bunch of pavers for a friend of ours.

 2.  Spending:  Well, the E-spinner money is gone, but I feel it's in a good cause.  I now have a macro lens for the camera (which I've been wanting since I got the camera) and a new GPS to replace the very frustrating old one.   Harvey Norman had a very good 5 year interest free deal, it won't take anywhere near that long to pay it off, but all my spending money for the next while is spoken for.   It won't affect the main budget though so it's all good.

3.  Crafting:   I'm still trying to decide which era to go for.  I want to make a kirtle so I can go to next year's SCA event, don't have time to do it before this year's one and I'd have to make trousers and smock for each of the menfolk as well.  Good thing about this I only need to make a shift for underwear, no corset.
I also want to do early 1800's cos I love the styles and can see me wearing them now for my day to day wear, and then there's the bustle era which works well for steampunk.   There is a steampunk group in Christchurch too.   For the second 2 I need to do corsets; both different shapes, plus petticoats (also different shapes) etc.   The other difficulty is I will be losing weight due to the removal of sugar so I need to keep that in mind too.

My question for you, should I go Regency or Bustle Era?

This is the sort of shape I like in Regency

And an absolutely gorgeous bustle era dress

I wouldn't necessarily be making these particular dresses, but it gives you an idea; which first?

From tomorrow

I'm starting my resolutions a little early and in fact this year I'm changing them from resolutions to a plan.

1.  Health:  The biggie and I'm talking physical health here.
I have started making smoothies, unfortunately this is going to increase the vege bill a bit till the garden gets growing properly.    Today's was a fruit smoothie cos it's my birthday and it was made by my eldest.  Tomorrow I'm back to the green ones, will have to check if Dh bought me some spinach today.  Today is the last day for sugar, warning there may be a grumpy bear in the house for the next week.

Exercise is a big sticking point for me.   I know I need to, but usually I just don't.   I'll be trying to fit something in each day to help with the RSI and my health.

2.  Spending:  I did some today, but it was new undies for Dh and some figures for him.   I sold my e-spinner yesterday and am going to endeavour to keep the money in the account and not just spend it.   No more yarn or fabric or fibre unless it's for a specific project which I don't have sufficient yarn/fibre/fabric on hand for.  There is one exception, I got a voucher today from my parents (thanks mum and dad) for The Fabric Store which will likely be spent on Saturday on something pretty.
Concentrating on the mortgage again.

3.  Crafting:   There are some things I want to work on this year. 
-I want to finish all my knitting WIP's and am not allowing any new cast on's for anything except my travel knitting till they're all done.
-I need to finish the king bed quilt, it's been sitting around for a few years now and it'd be nice if it was done for winter 2015
-On weaving I need to do the mohair rug and I got more yarn for that today (thanks mum!), so if the first one goes smoothly I might make another.   There's more weaving projects as well of course.
-Spinning - I have a bin with 12 fibres of over 2oz each to spin over the next 12 months; as well as that there is the current perendale and my East Fresian and silk blend to do too; they come first.
I dyed the EF/S today in teal, might be carding it I think and try corespinning
-Sewing - there needs to be some everyday sewing.   I need more workout gear and more everyday stuff to wear.  So do the boys.   There are plans for more historical clothing, had been thinking about 1805 but am now thinking maybe 1600's so I can look at the SCA.   Maybe both eventually, but not this year as both will need new support garments as well as the actual dress.   Hmm, should I go earlier and make a dress that doesn't need stays.....

Finished!

My RSI is playing up a little, but I wanted to finish it before my birthday and I did manage that, if only by a day!   There will be modeled shots later, but at the moment she's blocking on our bed

Soaking ready to block

from the tassel end, love those leaves

and from the patterned end

It's not quite dry yet, but it had better hurry up cos it's too big to shift!

Merry Christmas!

Well, I didn't get some things done, the original plan involved making a spiced apple cake, and not hitting my thumb with a tree and having to have bark extracted from the nail bed.   Never mind, it doesn't hurt a lot now so I've got some knitting and spinning done.   Casting on a new pair of socks for travel knitting; trying something I saw on Ravelry where a 2-colour yarn was knit up with all one colour knit and the other colour purled, I thought it was a great way to treat the yarn.   The yarn I'm using is one I dyed ages ago in dark green and purple to look like an iris.  Purple will purl and green is knit.

Before I cast on anything aside from the travel socks though I need to finish other stuff.   I need to finish the test knit which is getting closer, one edge is complete

The edge on the bottom of the photo needs doing and the tassles on the narrow end

I finished the last pair of travel socks last night, the yarn seemed to have a little prickle factor to me when I wore them for a short time, hopefully that'll reduce with wear.   They are very slippery on the hard floors though, more so than my usual hand knit socks.

Hermione's Everyday Socks blended with a double gusset heel.

I used my new lace kit for Esme as well, 20WPI 2-plied laceweight yarn is the result using a merino/silk blend

Yummy laceweight, will probably be a pair of mitts, or possibly a hat. 225m total.

George has got started on his first warp on his loom, the heddles are all threaded and next will be the reed and tying it off

This will be a scarf

And there might have been some yarn arriving as well, I hadn't planned to originally but then I sold my Little Grace Special wheel so there was yarn and Xbox games; don't think you need to see the games, but here's the yarn!

Red Utiku Possum yarn, this will be a jersey; probably Ease

The purple Max is new, it's to go with the teal and grey and will be a Pixelated Pullover

This was an impulse purchase, it has pinky tones and is probably going to be a Pirate Danger and has gold sparkles in it

More merino and possum type yarn, not sure what this is for yet, but it may well be another jersey, this will be the main colour

and this will be the contrast

Rainbow top, I was lucky to get this.

I think that's it for now.  I'll be warping up the loom in the holidays but can't start weaving till my tail detangler arrives (for horse tails, but apparently really good on brushed mohair).

Time

At this point in my life there is never enough time.   I need time to do work, to do housework (yes, that's another type of work, but unpaid so separate), be with the kids (reading to them is now requested again each night), baking, computer and of course crafting.    Unfortunately I can't fit it all in and of late the kids and crafting have been losing out.  

Last weekend we spent more time with the kids, partly because it was George's birthday party and partly because even if it hadn't been I wanted to spend some time doing stuff with them that wasn't housework or garden related.     We went kayaking and it was hard work and fun!   George was a natural, one of his friends was ok and the other took 10 minutes to get the hang of it and then took off.   Ian started in his own kayak and ended up in with me in the double.   I got very wet, Ian got mildly damp and I also got a darned good workout as I was doing all the work, lol!

George was very lucky, he got the Minecraft game from us as well as the time spent kayaking.  He got money from his friends and spent it on more Xbox games (both Lego ones) and he also got a wallet and a little robot from his paternal grandparents.   He's still to get presents from my family and also his paternal aunt.

We have plans for the holidays, aside from the holiday programme I'm taking the boys to learn weaving at the guild and George and I will be warping up the table loom too.    I don't think a lot of housework will get done in the holidays, some because we have to, but not a huge amount.   Gardening will be done because we want to be able to eat home grown if possible; we have potatoes, zucchini, lettuces, peas coming on and there's also beans and tomatoes considering the possibility of future production.
I'm also thinking some baking together would be nice, both boys love gingerbread and there's other yummy options in my books, we can take some baking down to the park and have a picnic.

I've got to do some planning for my next weaving project too, I have the yarn, but need to change some of the plan in Anne Field's book as I want to use all of my mohair yarn in one go if I can.
My test knit is getting there, I'm working on the border now, so it feels like progress is being made.  Photo's will be taken once the border is a bit further along; it's only about 1.5" in so far.

I did finish the neckwarmer though