First up I want to say I could have done this better; more piecing and the triangular needle-holders would have looked better; but I didn't plan that far ahead. Continuous binding would have been better too; hindsight is definitely a good thing; next time I will make changes to include these observations. Overall though I'm quite happy with it; it does the job nicely and you only notice the edges of the triangles if you look closely.
The important bits first:
Finished size for mine was 39.5" long and 10.5" wide, including binding. I use a combination of imperial and metric measurements as I go, sorry, that's just how I am.
Foreground fabric - prewashed
Batting (I used a polyester batting that was fairly firm)
Backing fabric - prewashed
Scrappy bits to make the triangles
Binding (I used more of the backing fabric)
Dowel about 2.5" longer than your quilt is wide; I used one that was about the thickness of a pencil.
Freemotion or darning foot
Walking foot is handy, but not a must have
Snap press. I have a Kam snap press which I use on the resin snaps; you could use the plier type on the metal ones instead.
1. Press your backing and foreground fabric. When I say press I mean place the iron on the fabric after smoothing it with your hands, lift it and place again next to where you started; keep doing this till the whole thing is pressed. Don't iron (sliding the iron around the fabric) as this can take your fabric off grain which is a bad thing. This is my ironing station; it's kept in the sewing room and consists of an ancient ironing board with a Singer steam station; which is brilliant! I also have a steam press on the other side of the room, but that's not normally used for quilting.
3. Trim close to size; my batting was cut square at the quilt shop; and I did check before trimming my fabrics to slightly bigger than the batting.
4. If your scraps haven't already been prewashed then steam press them to preshrink the fabric. Mine hadn't been washed so I did this; it means that if I have to wash the needle holder for any reason the fabrics have already been shrunk so there won't be any puckering.
I give her a dust on the outside, then I remove the bobbin and clean that area out properly with the brush as you can see. I put a drop of oil at the bottom of the bobbin casing and then oil all the red bits in the top as well. A fresh needle, put everything back together and I'm ready to proceed.
Please make sure you take this step before you start a new project; it will keep your machine running smoothly for a lot longer and reduces wear on parts. This is important for obvious reasons. I also make sure I turn the machine off at the wall if not in use, these old Bernina's have been known to blow a capacitor in the foot control which then means they will run even if you're not there; this could start a fire and even if it doesn't it's not good for the machine to be run at full speed with no breaks until you hear it and stop it.
7. Other methods for keeping the layers together include quilters basting spray, or you can get tag guns which will work well too. For larger items I'm tempted to try out the basting spray, otherwise I'll have to buy a whole heap more of the safety pins.
blog on free-motion quilting which says not to drop the feed dogs as it causes tension issues (you can see that she was right, I've got lots of tension issues on the back in the last photo). She takes her stitch length to 0 so the feed dogs aren't really doing anything and finds that works much better. She also has a whole heap of free-motion designs on her website. I ended up ordering the gloves and teflon sheet that she sells for when I get my King-sized quilt to that point.
9. Trim quilt to finished size.
10. Cut binding to 4 times preferred finished width (for 1cm binding, cut 4cm wide).
Sew in the same direction for both long edges; this is especially important if you're not using a walking foot as the top layer will tend to walk forward slightly as you sew.
This part could also be hand-sewn, but I'm too lazy for that.
17. Choose your snap colour. I found 3 options I was looking at. A dark brown, a burgundy and a sky blue. I ended up going with the dark brown as it seemed to work best to me.
18. Snap female snaps to triangles.
20. Measure mounting sleeve, you want this on before doing the male snaps on the main section. I cut the mounting sleeve the same width as the quilt, it will end up 1/2" narrower after seaming. The length needs to be 8 times the finished depth. In my case it was 8"x10.5".
23. Iron on size labels. I used my Dymo Letratag to make my labels. The smaller sizes which I have lots of sock needles in had 2 tags each; one for longer ones and one for shorter ones; the bigger needles I don't have many fixed circulars for so they got one each.
24. Hang, add your needles and admire! Mine's on the back of the sewing room door, there wasn't anywhere else to put it.
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- A very busy day
- Dalhousie finished!
- No photo day
- Tutorial for needle holder
- a little craft helps immensley
- Another section cleaned
- Byebye cobwebs
- A multi-fibred sheep
- So tired!
- A long time!
- A little knitting and gardening
- Spinning the little sheep
- Finally, craft time!
- It's Raining, It's Pouring!
- Day 18 - getting tidier!
- Day 17 - installing a cat door
- Day 16 - Exercise and rugby
- Day 15 - a day of much cleaning
- Day 14 - table, what table?
- Day 13 - T shirt Tutorial as promised
- Day 12 - cat issue resolved (we hope)
- That Damned Cat!
- Day 10 Blogtoberfest - not according to plan
- Day 10 Blogtoberfest - a t-shirt
- Day 9 blogtoberfest
- Day 8 - A finish line reached
- Day 7 Blogtoberfest - of triangles and wool
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- More gardening
- Blogtoberfest - Oct 1
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