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Sunday, March 24, 2013

The 1913 Jacket hack

The Challenge:  Stripes

Fabric: 100% wool suiting for the striped fabric, the facing is in a wool blend (rust), the collar is in cotton velvet and the lining is silk.   I didn't have enough of the main fabric to do the collar so chose to use leftovers from the skirt for the facing and I've always wanted a jacket with a velvet collar, so used that too.  I also cut out the undersleeve on the cross-grain which allowed me to get most of it in.  I think it is something that would have been done in 1913 as you wouldn't waste fabric.

Pattern: Simplicity 3688 with some adjustments to suit 1913 (changed collar shape based on photo's I found and hunting jackets).  I also dropped the bust point as I'm not the same shape as the pattern standard and redrafted the lining pattern.

Year: 1913

Notions:  7 buttons, fusible interfacing (didn't have any sew-in when I started this, have some now), thread, small shoulder pads from stash.

How historically accurate is it?  Aside from the fusible interfacing I think it's pretty good.  Main seams are machine sewn, but buttonholes, topstitching are done by hand as is the lining hems and main fabric hems too.  The different fabric choices to enable me to get the whole thing made is also period appropriate, especially for a servant's clothing.

Hours to complete:  It took me most of the week, don't know how many hours though as that's not something I count.

First worn:  for the photoshoot, but I will wear it out and about this winter.

Total cost:  Everything was from stash and I think the main fabric was picked up from a donation pile at my Weavers and Spinners Guild, cost me about $3 I think.

I'm having fun here!

The cat is not as impressed by my sewing expertise as I am apparently, lol.  

You can see some of the detail here, the contrast facing on the collar, the much less offended cat now that she's been released.... I even have period appropriate shoes!

It fits well, and the hair fits the picture too, pity about the washing.

See the undersleeve is cut on the crossgrain to save fabric?

My first hand-sewn buttonholes and you can see the top-stitching to the right.

More topstitching.   It goes from the side seam right around the collar.
I have to say again that I'm really pleased with it, it will be worn a lot this winter and I'm really glad I took up the challenge to start historical sewing.

Next historical item will be the fur collar, I'll pull out the astrakhan and silk this afternoon.

I've got George's second slipper started, still hating the knitting of it but it's got to be done, and yesterday I filled the first bobbin of Gotland/English Leicester cross.   I've determined it takes 3 shoeboxes of prepped staples to fill one bobbin.   I need to do at least two more.


Miriam said... Best Blogger Tips

It looks great Rachelle well done! :0)

Anonymous said... Best Blogger Tips

Very nice!

Wanderingcatstudio said... Best Blogger Tips

It looks fantastic!

Magda Deja said... Best Blogger Tips

Beautiful Pics! You got a great Blog. Would you like to follow each other?
Just let me know ;)

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